Was time to put the new bearings in to freezer and crank case halves to owen. The bearings spent abot a day in the freezer and the crank case halves were cooked for about an hour at 150 degrees in the owen. The workshop manual suggested 100C for removing the bearings but I thought the warmer the case is, the easier it is to get the bearings in. Besides there wasn't anything that could be damaged with that heat.
Main bearings and lay shaft bearings were the easiest as the bearing being at -18C and crank case half being at 150C the bearing went in without any interference. As a matter fact there was even a small clearance for a few seconds which disappeared rather quickly and the bearing didn't come off anymore. At least those should be straight as they literally hit the bottom.
Gearbox main shaft and timing shaft bearings were much harder and I actually had to tap the outer ring with a socket to get them in. They were also in the freezer but they are so small that the case heats them up so quickly. Tapping still requires probably much less force than just having both in room temperature.
Swingarm bearings and seals are still on the table. Those also seemed to be pretty tight but heat gun and cold spray should do. After that I get to real business measuring the crank shaft end float and required shimms. First I need to find the smallest ones since I'm a bit afraid I don't get any float with the original onces.
2013-08-22
Bearings off
The last time I got the crankshaft removed so what was left, was removing the bearings and stud bolts. I would have left the stud bolts in place if my owen was big enough but unfortunately it isn't. Anyway it turned out to be a good choise since when heating the crank half in the owen the bearings came out almost by themselves. Much more convenient than with heat gun which takes ages to heat up.
Once I got the bearings removed I took the halves to a local machinery shop for washing. A quick way to get them clean even though the result could have been better. I think the only way to make it look like a new would be to boil them in sodium hydroxide. I didn't have facilities for doing that though and besides would rather practise with something cheaper since sodium hydroxide corrodes aluminium and therefor there's a possibility to ruin the cases. Well, they now look much better than earlier.
Currently there's no Ducati's importer in Finland as the previous one got fired or quit after 20 years, don't know the details, but it makes getting parts locally a bit hard. I would have liked to know the price at least even though I probably had ended up ordering the parts from Germany or Italy since they usually are pretty expensive here. I decided to change all the bearings except for heads and water pump, all the gaskets, seals and o-rings and belts. The total price was a bit over 700 euros including postage fees etc. Just the mains would have been ~150 euros total but wasn't up for saving here since the engine was already in pieces. Even though the price might sound high, if you take your Ducati for 20k km service (belts, valves, etc) the price is somewhere above 1000 euros in here. So yeah, you get most of the downstairs renewed cheaper. Own spare time is free of course :)
Once I got the bearings removed I took the halves to a local machinery shop for washing. A quick way to get them clean even though the result could have been better. I think the only way to make it look like a new would be to boil them in sodium hydroxide. I didn't have facilities for doing that though and besides would rather practise with something cheaper since sodium hydroxide corrodes aluminium and therefor there's a possibility to ruin the cases. Well, they now look much better than earlier.
Currently there's no Ducati's importer in Finland as the previous one got fired or quit after 20 years, don't know the details, but it makes getting parts locally a bit hard. I would have liked to know the price at least even though I probably had ended up ordering the parts from Germany or Italy since they usually are pretty expensive here. I decided to change all the bearings except for heads and water pump, all the gaskets, seals and o-rings and belts. The total price was a bit over 700 euros including postage fees etc. Just the mains would have been ~150 euros total but wasn't up for saving here since the engine was already in pieces. Even though the price might sound high, if you take your Ducati for 20k km service (belts, valves, etc) the price is somewhere above 1000 euros in here. So yeah, you get most of the downstairs renewed cheaper. Own spare time is free of course :)
2013-08-12
Removing the crankshaft
It's been a while since the last update since there wasn't too much progress before I got removing of the primary drive gear removed which I couldn't do myself. Well, now pretty much everything is apart.
The gearbox comes out in a few different pieces. Started by removing the fork guide shafts and once they are off the fork drum comes off. When it's off, there's enough room to pull out the forks and finally the main shaft and the lay shaft can be taken out in one piece. At least for now I didn't separate the gears since the bike didn't have much mileage on it and the gears show no worn. Still need to make sure they are well cleaned and oiled before reassembly.
As I mentioned, I don't have the tool to remove the primary drive gear which I've heard, pretty much requires the OEM tool for the job since it's pretty damn tight. There were ones on eBay for about 140£ which is about 160€. I wouldn't have been in a bankruptcy because of that but for a one time job didn't sound like it's worth it. Besides my usual part supplier guy mentioned about his friend who has the tool and is willing to help so I paid a visit and it was really worth the drive even though he doesn't live exactly the next door. He has been working with Ducati engines since eighties, been racing with Ducatis and at some point even servicing the bikes as a sub-contractor for the local shop. He really was very helpful and got tons of invaluable tips for the rebuild so I ended up spending couple hours there even though the job itself didn't take even half an hour.
Obviously the gear didn't get off just by talking. Turned the puller with impact gun for a while and nothing happened. This wasn't even my cheap one but his professional tool. So applied some good heat with electrical heat gun and tried again. Still took a while, but finally popped off, yay.
I still had the timing belt drive shaft in place as my self made tool didn't work too well and didn't have time to fine tune it yet. Well, got the belt gears off on the same trip. Finally asked some opinions about the crank preload and he suggested using a dial gauge and thinnest possible shims to measure the crank play and then calculate the correct shims. That's the alternative method described in the workshop manual. Measuring crank and the cases is quite tricky according to him but I still think I try that just out of curiosity and see how close readings I get. I think I still count on the "alternative" method if the readings aren't too close.
Worth mentioning that the timing belt drive shaft has one symmetric woodruff key and one offset one so I took a picture of it to remember that on reassembly. So the timing on horizontal cylinder doesn't seem to be exactly the same as the vertical. The difference isn't really big but I suppose the key has offset for a purpose.
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The gearbox comes out in a few different pieces. Started by removing the fork guide shafts and once they are off the fork drum comes off. When it's off, there's enough room to pull out the forks and finally the main shaft and the lay shaft can be taken out in one piece. At least for now I didn't separate the gears since the bike didn't have much mileage on it and the gears show no worn. Still need to make sure they are well cleaned and oiled before reassembly.
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Obviously the gear didn't get off just by talking. Turned the puller with impact gun for a while and nothing happened. This wasn't even my cheap one but his professional tool. So applied some good heat with electrical heat gun and tried again. Still took a while, but finally popped off, yay.
I still had the timing belt drive shaft in place as my self made tool didn't work too well and didn't have time to fine tune it yet. Well, got the belt gears off on the same trip. Finally asked some opinions about the crank preload and he suggested using a dial gauge and thinnest possible shims to measure the crank play and then calculate the correct shims. That's the alternative method described in the workshop manual. Measuring crank and the cases is quite tricky according to him but I still think I try that just out of curiosity and see how close readings I get. I think I still count on the "alternative" method if the readings aren't too close.
Worth mentioning that the timing belt drive shaft has one symmetric woodruff key and one offset one so I took a picture of it to remember that on reassembly. So the timing on horizontal cylinder doesn't seem to be exactly the same as the vertical. The difference isn't really big but I suppose the key has offset for a purpose.
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